Dicing with the Deadly Fugu

As Jules and I wander the streets of Osaka we inevitably find ourselves in one of the numerous restaurant areas…there are just so many! Of course, there are plenty of different forms of food to choose from, but the one that has me particularly fascinated are the places that specialise in serving the deadly Fugu fish. They are quite easy to find, as they often have a tank in the window with these ugly, but highly appreciated fish swimming around or a large model of one hanging above the door. Now, the first time I heard of this type of marine creature was when I used to go fishing with my dad many years ago and we would occasionally catch the Australian equivalent, called a Toadfish or ‘Toady’ as we used to call them. When you caught one they would puff up to about three times their size looking very unappetising. Even more significant was the fact that they are highly poisonous and so we were always happy to just throw them back. Our wariness was further fuelled by various urban myths regarding whole families who had been wiped out after catching and eating the deadly fish. Well, it seems that Japanese Fugu (puffer fish) is a somewhat bigger cousin…uglier and even more poisonous that it’s Australian counterpart, but for some strange reason it’s meat is highly sought in Japan. It is so revered that people will risk their lives to eat raw slices in government-licenced premises. In order to obtain permission to serve the fish, the chef must go through a rigorous training program in order to learn how to remove all traces of poison from the flesh, which is traditionally served sashimi style. It is one of the most expensive fish in the world and it’s flavour is said to be very delicate. At this stage Jules and I have not been tempted to try it, but some of my teaching colleagues have indulged and live to tell the tale. Their advice to me was simple…just get your affairs in order before you enter the restaurant! I’m not sure whether I am quite ready yet , but I must admit I have a sneaking admiration for those who are brave enough to dice with the Fugu fish.

Building a Japanese House

As I have always had a strong interest in architecture, I was particularly keen to have a closer look at domestic architecture while in Japan. Over the years in my Design classes we would inevitably discuss the stylistic inspiration of Japanese architecture on modernist pioneers such as Frank Lloyd Wright and Charles Rennie Mackintosh. This would eventually lead to the Bauhaus and obvious connections to the minimalist style that remains so popular today. While the traditional wooden, grid-based style can still be easily found, it is fair to say that the modern Japanese home is now very different in both design and construction. Fortunately, I have the opportunity to observe modern house construction first hand while passing the numerous building sites on the way to school. Being in the outer northern suburbs of Osaka, the once open foothills are now quickly being covered with what can only be described as ‘instant’ homes.

The first thing that strikes you is the size of the land on which they are being built, which is very small. However, in true Japanese tradition every portion of the space is fully utilised ensuring that each home is literally within arms length of its neighbour.
Most sit very close to the road, with just enough space for a small car space. The generally double storey designs vary considerably, from flat roofed modern executive styles to traditional cottages that would look more at home in England. The last remnants of Japanese aesthetic appears to have almost totally disappeared, with even the traditional tatami room increasingly giving way to the popular home cinema. However, what continues to fascinate me is the sheer speed in which they are constructed. With the foundation barely dry, the wooden framework goes up with tradesmen busily working into the night, often under floodlights in order to push the job forward. A cloth covered scaffold is neatly placed around the house while construction is underway, so for several weeks the house looks like a large present ready to be unwrapped by the proud owner in due course. There is not a cement mixer in sight, with the stone, brick or cement exterior finishes achieved by textured panels that are eventually glued on. Not surprisingly, I have heard that modern homes are not particularly well insulated and this might explain the high demand for reverse cycle air conditioning units. Nonetheless, when the finished home is revealed a few weeks later, it has the appearance of a shiny new appliance.

Of course there is great care taken in selecting an impressive front door, which always opens outward for some reason. This could be cultural or more likely a way of providing more interior space for removing your shoes; a traditional practice that still continues today.

Le Corbusier once stated that a home should be ‘a machine for living in’ and it seems that the Japanese have taken this adage on board. Like most modern products that inevitably become obsolete, these homes are not expected to last forever. Having lived with earthquakes for centuries, the Japanese are well aware of that. I was told that 30 years was a reasonable expectation for the life of a house and with that in mind, you can well understand the sense of impermanence these modern homes often seem to reflect.

Osaka's Electronic Maze

During our early days in Japan we found ourselves with the challenge of having to quickly furnish and equip our apartment with the usual array of electrical appliances. It was while going through this process we became more than familiar with the ‘Godzilla sized’ electrical stores that dominate many of the major shopping areas. Nothing quite prepares you for the experience of walking into multi-level mega-stores like ‘Yodobashi Camera’ or ‘Labi’. Here, you are immediately hit by a wave of noise and visuals that would totally disorientate most unsuspecting consumers, not to mention the already disorientated foreigner, who can’t read or speak a word of Japanese. Catchy jingles are continually and loudly played throughout the store, subconsciously planting an annoying little tune in your head that is guaranteed to stay with you long after you leave. For those long suffering sales assistants, it must be like slow torture, but they don’t outwardly show it, maintaining their friendly bows and echoed crys of ‘Irasshaimase’(welcome to my store) all day long. While the sounds are distracting, they pale into insignificance to the visual barrage of information that faces you. To us it simply becomes a meaningless mosaic of pattern and colour, but for the Japanese consumer it must truly be a ‘sledgehammer’ approach to selling. Thankfully for us, the prices are clear and presented in English characters, making it easy for us to buy our chosen products. When you eventually reach a cashiers desk, the assistants are gushing over with friendliness and immediately offer you a point card (hugely popular in Japan). This means that with every purchase you can build up your ‘pointo’s’, which allows for future discounts. This provides the incentive to lure you back into the store to endure the experience all over again. Of course, we have been back many times and each time we walk in those doors the sight and sound of these amazing electrical stores instantly brings back memories of our first confusing and exciting days in Japan.

Karaoke Kids!

If you begin to spend a reasonable length of time in Japan it is inevitable that you will at some stage find yourself dragged into a karaoke bar. Believe me, there are many of them and they come in a wide variety of forms. At night the city streets are full of touts eager to usher you into their particular establishment, where a range of soundproof private rooms called ‘karaoke boxes’ await you. Here, for an hourly fee, you and your friends can vocally murder a range of popular songs, many of which were favourites before going in there, but possibly not after. I must confess that in the wee small hours of the night after a feast and a few ales, Jules and I have been coerced into such places. After crossing that threshold there is no turning back, it’s either sink or sing!! Of course when eventually the microphone is slipped into your hand, you are encouraged by three key factors…
1. Most songs are sung in pairs, which ensures shared humiliation.
2. The microphones they give you have the most incredible reverb that can make even the worst of singers sound good!
3. Those in the karaoke box are primed with a steady supply of alcohol throughout the evening.
The last factor is most important as it has the dual effect of making the singer think that they actually sound good, while also making the listener totally unable to differentiate the numerous bum notes. Having now experienced the wonderful world of karaoke, we both agree that it can actually be a fun few hours and certainly a great way to bond with newfound friends. We certainly won’t be taking our singing talents any further, but if you’re tempted to indulge in such musical mayhem there is probably not a better country in the world to give it a try. After all, the Japanese invented it and karaoke still remains one of their most popular national pastimes.

The Mysteries of Buddhism

Walking the familiar path back to school at 7.30am in mid January, the air is cold, the light is dull and there are even some small flakes of snow falling from above. It’s in stark contrast to the blazing sun that Jules and I felt as we walked the streets of Adelaide over the New Year period. As I make my way up the hill, breathing steam as I go, I can smell the familiar aroma of incense drifting across from the Buddhist cemetery that I pass everyday. This is a regular occurrence and can happen at any hour as well wishers pay their respects, not with flowers, but with the burning of incense sticks. As I pass the entrance and take a glance, there is no-one to be seen, only the serene outlines of the various Buddha figures that overlook the area. These figures are usually made of granite and come in a range of sizes and forms. What we particularly find amusing is that these figures are often adorned with brightly coloured clothing. Little hats, neckerchiefs, and cloaks are often lovingly made and placed on the figures as if to help them stave off the cold. This was particularly evident recently when we visited the Shitennoji markets, which are held in the grounds of a local Buddhist temple. There, hundreds of little figures (standing no taller than 30cm high) stand as silent sentinels at the entrance looking beautifully attired in a myriad of tiny little outfits. Not being experts on the Buddhist faith, Jules and I remain slightly perplexed by what this all means. This is just one small facet of a religion that increasingly fascinates us both. Even for an outsider looking in, there appears to be an understated calmness that is in stark contrast to the modern metropolitan world. Temples appear in the most unlikely of places and it is not unusual to see a brief cased office worker taking a quiet moment to pay his respects by burning incense and striking the distinctive sounding bell. Recently Jules was advised to buy a ‘temple book’, in which for a small fee, monks will write words of wisdom in beautiful Japanese calligraphic script. This conveniently gives us an excuse to visit more temples to learn a little more about this mysterious and somewhat cryptic religion.

Travellers Back for Christmas

After much anticipation we finally boarded our plane for our first journey back home since leaving the shores of Australia over 20 months ago. Despite only a slight time difference between Japan and home, it takes around 17 hours before we actually touch down in Adelaide on a somewhat uncharacteristically cold and damp summers day. Despite feeling a little tired we are very excited to see both of our families and in particular our son Dave. Much has happened in his life since we left and not having parents to rely upon has certainly seen him mature into a very responsible and confident young man. Also brilliant to catch up with friends, who continue to be so encouraging with their moral support throughout our travels via skype, emails and letters. Christmas Day brings the whole family together, including Jules’ sisters and her mum and dad, who make a special trip from country Victoria to share the special day. It is one of the rare times when we are all together and the occasion also provides an opportunity for us to also mark a number of significant family milestones, including their 50th wedding anniversary and our 30th. We all gradually slip into a relaxed holiday mode over the next few days as temperatures steadily rise, culminating in a stiffling 43 degrees on New Years Eve. A traditional Aussie barbeque seems like the most appropriate way to welcome 2011. Typically, Adelaide tends to shut down over the Christmas / New Year period, but we do have chance to drive around familiar haunts in our little rental car. We have noticed some superficial changes, but it remains essentially the same. Progress tends to work in slow motion in good old Adelaide, which can be both a blessing and a curse. However, we can now see our home town with fresh eyes, which tends to happen when you have been away for a while. Even after living here almost all of our lives, we now feel slightly detached and observe the various happenings somewhat impartially. For the moment we feel out of the loop, but through the wonders of technology, we will continue to keep a watchful eye from afar … after all ‘we still call Australia home’!

Christmas in Japan

Once again festive season is upon us and this year Jules and I are jetting back home to Australia to celebrate with family and friends. However, before we head off, we have the chance to experience a taste of Japanese Christmas. Like us, you might be surprised that it is even celebrated here at all, considering it’s predominantly Buddhist and Shinto spiritual leanings (less than 1% of the population are actually Christian). However, as is the case with many other western influences, the Japanese have enthusiastically taken Christmas on board. Gone are the biblical references, with the focus of this time of the year on a combination of Santa, family and friends. It is also regarded as somewhat of a time for romance, with Christmas Eve being akin to Valentines Day. Like at home, Christmas decorations are a major part of the celebration and they start to appear in early November. Steadily the build up begins with households and shopping streets throughout Osaka hanging elaborate decorative lights to launch the festive season. This was particularly evident when we recently visited Kobe, where they have one of the most spectacular light shows you could ever hope to see. The illuminations originally began as a commemoration to the victims of the 1995 earthquake and have since grown into a spectacular and quite moving event. For 10 evenings the streets are closed to traffic, while thousands of people slowly parade through a dazzling display of lights, while a stirring choral soundtrack adds to a surprisingly spiritual atmosphere. There is a winter’s chill in the air (not as cold as Paris…more like an Aussie winter), but there is a general feeling of warmth and goodwill in the air. Naturally enough the retail shops use the season as a time to boost trading, with favourite seasonal tunes playing in every store, while decorative trees and displays heavily promote annual Christmas sales. From all accounts Christmas Day itself is a little strange. It is really much like any other; the stores are open, people work and students go to school. We were surprised to read recently that the traditional Christmas dish is Kentucky Fried Chicken!!!.. with the ‘finger lickin’ morsels so popular that you have to pre-book your bucket for the day. Surprisingly, presents are not traditionally given, with much of that saved until the New Year celebrations. Unlike the western world there is also no Christmas hang over and apparently by the day after the decorations have been whisked away for another year. It is certainly very different, but strangely enough you can’t help but sense that the Japanese have managed to get the commercialism of Christmas in perspective. They don’t pretend that it’s anything more than what it is…a feel good time to spend, eat, drink and enjoy in good company!

A Couple of Tokyo Joe's

Being a long weekend in Japan, Jules and I decided to fulfil one of our major goals since arriving in Japan. We boarded the bullet train for a quick trip to Tokyo! The train itself is a super fast beast that whisks you past the snow capped Mt. Fuji before pulling into Tokyo station only two and a half hours after leaving Osaka. From there it was just a short walk to the upmarket area of Ginza where we were staying. Being close to the Imperial Palace, it is a very stylish part of town. Along the major shopping strip all of the major European designer labels are well represented and despite worries about the Japanese economy we notice plenty of retail activity. Christmas is in the air and in the evening the city lights are even more spectacular with added illuminations on many of the buildings and tree lined streets. Once again Jules comes into her own, by quickly mastering the metro system and we are easily able to dart around to various areas of this huge city. We explore bustling Asakusa, with the traditional Sensoji temple on one side of the river and the post-modernism architecture of Philippe Starck’s Asahi brewery on the other. There is also the crazy excitement of Akihabara, which is the electronics centre of town, which is matched by the fashion areas of Harajuka and Shibuya with its famous pedestrian crossing that has become the archetypical scene of Tokyo. I begin to discover some the numerous galleries that dot the city, including a major Van Gogh exhibition at the National Arts Centre, which was particularly appropriate as only a few months ago we had visited many of the places where the works were painted. On Sunday evening we indulged ourselves by visiting the bar made famous in the movie ‘Lost in Translation’. On the 52nd floor of the of the Park Hyatt Hotel we sit with drink in hand, listening to some cool jazz and admiring the spectacular view…not bad at all!! Jules and I both agreed that Tokyo generally has a different feel than Osaka…much more cosmopolitan, it feels like a major international city and there is a sense that the locals know it… not in an arrogant way, but just in their general air of confidence. Most spoke some English, which was particularly helpful to us, and the signage, menus etc. were always in dual languages. It is a welcoming city and we certainly enjoyed our short stay here. As we sped back to Osaka we felt confident that we will return soon…there is still so much to see!

Sculptural Servings

For my recent birthday Jules presented me with something I had secretly wanted to possess since we had arrived in Japan…my own genuine piece of ‘plastic food’. It came in the form of a deliciously tempting fruity ice-cream sundae which looked so fresh and tempting, which is exactly what it is designed to do. I had developed this strange fascination for these colourful and totally inedible plastic pieces since we started to frequent the many restaurant areas around Osaka. It seems that almost every second eating establishment display their exotic menus using model replicas of the actual dish. They are beautifully presented to the last detail, but as we later found, often provide a somewhat enhanced version of the actual dish that comes to your table. What I particularly like about the plastic pieces are their sculptural qualities that accentuate the sheer visual splendour of food…its colour, texture, patterns and forms. The displays are pure ‘pop art’ that in a different setting could easily be accredited to artists such as Warhol and Koons. Instead they simply add to the overwhelming visual assault that hits the unsuspecting visitor to the streets of Japan. In the meanwhile my little piece sits proudly on display in our apartment, always fresh, ever so tempting, but never to be eaten.

Croissants and Kimonos

When you think about France and in particular Paris, it conjures up a whole range of mental images usually associated with food, wine, fashion, art or architecture. We certainly loved experiencing as many of these things as possible while we were there. However, it seems that nowhere in the world is French culture regarded in such high esteem as here in Japan. All things French are unquestioningly placed on a pedestal and held up as the pinnacle of sophistication. Many fashion arcades are dedicated to the giants of French couture, while lesser local clothes shops simply brand their establishments in French in order to suggest their stylistic credentials. When walking through a food area you are hard pressed not to come across a patisserie or boulangerie, complete with a catchy French title (often spelt incorrectly). If you peer through the windows you see high-hatted bakers producing delicate pastries and crunchy French sticks that could be straight from the streets of Paris. Similarly, the local liqueur stores proudly boast a wide selection of wines from major wine regions such as Champagne, Provence and Bordeaux (highly recommended). There also seems to be an endless number of homeware stores encouraging the Japanese to switch to the French provincial style. Of course the major galleries here heavily promote their French collections of paintings, even if they seem to consist of lesser known works. If you want a souvenir of Paris itself, why go there, when you can easily pick up a fridge magnet, postcard or even a replica Eiffel Tower! Possibly the strangest thing we came across was in Kobe, where we found a complete full size replica of an old style French village on a busy city corner. The facade not only came with traditional windows and signage, but in a dedicated attempt for authenticity, it had been artificially aged with faded paintwork and chipping plaster. The old style French oil lamps further sought to complete an illusion that was never really going to work, as numerous high-rise buildings tower over the scene. Jules and I, are constantly amazed with this strange fascination and always looking for further evidence of ‘Japanese-Francophilia’.

Otsu and All That Jazz

The Japanese love their jazz and it seems that just about every weekend you can listen to some wonderful live performances in and around the city. We have run into several by accident, but on the weekend we decided to visit a small jazz festival in a town called Otsu just a few miles out from Kyoto.

The‘Otsu Jazz Festival’ is quite a new one and this year is only the second time the event has operated. After about a 45 minute train journey, we walk out of the station to be enthusiastically greeted by an English speaking promotion volunteer who thrusts a program in our hands and starts to direct us toward the many venues in the town. Otsu is a relatively quiet place, perched on the banks of Lake Biwa and the jazz festival was obviously originally designed to inject a little bit of life into the town and provide a focus for the community.

As we wander around the streets we come across some terrific performers who are all surrounded by small enthusiastic groups of jazz lovers, wildly applauding each number.Not surprisingly we seem to be the only foreigners there, although do we come across a food vendor from Turkey selling yiros at one of the venues near the water. In the same spot our eyes catch a glimpse of an Australian flag, where to our surprise, there is a Japanese man selling Aussie meat pies! Our patriotic duty meant that we simply had to have one! As we continued to move around to see the various acts, we are ushered into a traditional Japanese house by a kindly old gentleman uncharacteristically wearing a jazz festival t-shirt. The interior is typically Japanese with its wooden screens and as we pass an ancient interior water well (that is obviously still in use) we see and hear a young guitar duet playing some lovely jazz standards in a large tatami room. We respectfully remove our shoes, pull up a pillow and join the handful of spectators sitting on the floor enjoying the music. Near the performers the sliding screens are open, revealing a picturesque Japanese courtyard. It was just perfect and sitting there listening to some soulful jazz it all seemed quite surreal. I must say that Jules and I have never listened to live jazz quite like this before!

A tasty time in Kobe

On a bright and sunny Autumn day Jules and I decide to venture out toward the seaside to visit the nearby city of Kobe. It’s about an hour away from our apartment by train, so it’s quite an easy commute that takes you between the coast on one side and the mountains on the other. Kobe is most recently known for the 1995 earthquake, which killed around 6,500 people and injured some 250,000. When we arrive there is now little sign of the devastation, although down by the docks there is small Commemorative Park where an original stretch of the ruined coastal walkway is still preserved. Today it is once again a bustling city, but it’s proximity to the coast gives it a somewhat more relaxed feel than other areas around Osaka. We had set out to visit one of the many art & craft markets that are constantly held throughout the year, but as is often the case there is so much more to see. We stumble into a small jazz concert, and then spend some time sampling the many tasty delights of Chinatown (where there was another jazz concert). With a Turkish ice cream in hand we head down toward the shore to find yet another flea market, then upon arriving at docks themselves we discover a huge gourmet festival in full swing! The Japanese really know how to celebrate the joys of good food and we are happy to join in! There is little time to explore the temples and other cultural sights on this visit; we’ll save that for another day!!

First Taste of Kyoto

After a busy first month in Osaka we are finally beginning to find the time to explore the wider region. We have been told that one of the must see places is Kyoto, as it provides some authentic Japanese experiences with it’s numerous temples and shrines. So on the Monday holiday (respect for the elderly day), we join the many citizens of Osaka who board the local train for the forty-minute trip. Upon arrival the differences from Osaka are not particularly evident (although a little more low-rise), but it is not too long before we are wandering through the tiny lanes and even passing quite a few citizens dressed in traditional kimono and hakama. We particularly enjoy looking at the art & craft galleries and purchase our first piece of Japanese artwork, which is a 120 year-old woodcut print. After a traditional Japanese lunch, we make our way to the Kiyomizu Temple that stands magnificently in the foothills close to the city as it has done since 798. It is crowded, but still very calm as people sip and wash with the sacred waters then respectfully touch the statue of Budda. Jules buys a temple book and begins the popular tradition of having it signed by the monks at every temple you visit…the calligraphy is a work of art in itself. Clearly Kyoto has much to offer and it won’t be too long until we return to sample its many other attractions.

Ode to the Vending Machine

As you walk around the streets of Osaka you are forever faced with temptation. The temptation takes the form of countless drink vending machines that seem to be dotted on every street corner and in the most obscure locations. They are usually filled with all manner of beverages, including a wide variety of iced teas and coffees, various brands of water, soft drinks and even beer in some cases. On hot days, these machines dispense delightfully icy cold drinks, which are always very refreshing. Next to the machines are usually small portable plastic bins (that are regularly emptied) so bottles can be neatly placed after consumption ready for recycling. The amazing thing about these machines is that they often stand in the most isolated locations in the hope of tempting the occasional passer by to part with around 150 yen (approx. AU$2.00) to relieve their thirst. They are always meticulously maintained and fully stocked, but more significantly, they appear to remain untampered. In most places in the world (including Australia) machines such as these would be an easy target for vandals or petty criminals looking for some small change or a few bottles of drink. They would be open to attack just because they can. Yet here they remain a small but significant testament to the nature of Japanese society. The honesty and respectfulness for a simple service such as this is so refreshing and reminiscent of an era that has long passed most countries. As the long hot summer continues here in Osaka, Jules and I will continue to enjoy the humble drink vending machine, wherever it may be!

Osaka Food Safari

It is hard to believe that we have been here in Osaka for three weeks as we are only just beginning to catch our breath. The first few weeks have been filled with the nuts and bolts of creating a new life here. Plenty of paperwork to be organised, things to be bought, delivered and installed in our new apartment. To compound things, most days have been sweltering with temperatures averaging around 38 degrees, mixed with incredibly high humidity. Even by Japanese standards, it has been a hot summer and it’s not over yet! While I have now started school, Jules is beginning to explore the city itself. Every night she tells me all of her new discoveries and revelations. As a true epicurean, the search for food ingredients is high on her list of priorities and finding her favourites has been a challenge. As most bottled and canned products are in Japanese, many still remain a complete mystery, while the hunt for essential herbs and spices continues. There is plenty of trial and error, but as each day passes Jules seems to find something she seeks. Gradually the pantry grows, so once she masters our tiny free-standing oven (whose instructions we can’t read) we will be eating gourmet style once again! In the meanwhile we indulge in the best of Japanese food with several fine meals from the endless selection of restaurants. This has resulted in several trips to downtown Osaka, which is around 30 minutes from our apartment. It is quite a remarkable experience and very different from our more suburban existence. After emerging from the train station you are faced with a labyrinth of arcades lined with shops and restaurants that extend over a number of levels. When you finally surface at ground level it is a visual explosion of high-rise, signs, sounds and people. It has been claimed that director Ridley Scott used Osaka as inspiration for the sci-fi classic ‘Blade Runner’, and I can see why, with its mass of illuminated signs and chaotic junction of overhead cabling, it seems to have evolved rather than been designed. However at nightfall, there is an energy that is quite unique and it seems that everyone is out to eat, drink and party. The Japanese really know how to enjoy themselves and it’s an opportunity to reveal the more out going side of their character. That is until around midnight at least. At that time, throngs of people are back on the streets making their way for the last of the trains that will return them safely to their homes. Naturally, we follow the tide of people and make our way back to our somewhat more sedate lifestyle in Japanese suburbia until next time our stomach’s start to rumble.

Splashdown Osaka!

After a long flight from London via Dubai we finally arrive at Kansai International Airport Osaka Japan. After much anticipation we have finally made it and while it’s late in the evening, we can see that it is big…very big! Although the sun has set, the temperature is still in the high 30’s. Thankfully the school has organised for us to be picked up at the airport so we are comfortably whisked to the heart of the bustling city to a hotel close to the school in the north. As day breaks, we can see that although this area is nowhere near as overwhelming as downtown Osaka, it’s still a busy metropolis that sits close to the surrounding mountains. We immediately hit the ground running with many things to be organised, including the most important one… somewhere to live! With no time to waste, we are taken to see a few potential places and are quite surprised by their generous sizes, as we had been previously warned that we might need to get used to some very tight living conditions…not necessarily the case! Amazingly, after only a couple of days of looking, the decision is made and we settle for a nice apartment, which is walking distance from the school and faces a leafy park. Of course it’s completely empty, so Jules is bound to have some fun over the next few months fitting it out. With that major decision over, we have started to venture further afield and are increasingly gaining confidence in the complex bus, monorail and train systems. We have had some great meals already, including a couple in down town Umeda and Namba, confirming that Osaka truly is a gourmet city…so much ahead to explore! Everyone has been so warm and welcoming and despite the obvious language differences, we are getting along quite nicely. Each day in Japan brings new revelations, as we just begin to scratch the surface.

Viva Seville!

With a week to spare before we venture to Japan, we decide to revisit one of our favourite countries, Spain, but this time the picturesque city of Seville. We had loved Barcelona when we visited earlier this year and knew that we would be warmly welcomed in regard to both hospitality and weather. From the time we arrive the thermometer remains around the 40 degree mark, so we opt for a steady routine of sightseeing, drinking, siesta, eating, more drinking followed by ice cream…a tried and true approach to Spanish tourism in the heat of August. We are fortunate that our hotel is in the old town, which means that some of the best tourist sights are at our doorstep and we are able to walk the narrow cobblestone lanes to most locations. We are amazed by some of the architecture with its strong Arabic influences, which are gradually undergoing careful restoration. In particular Torre Del Oro (The Golden Tower) and La Giralda with it’s imposing minaret, whose many ramps we patiently walk in the scorching heat of the day to reveal the best view of the city. The tower is attached to the grand gothic Cathedral of Seville, which is the third largest in Europe and houses the tomb of Christopher Columbus as well as many priceless church artefacts. Another highlight is the Real Alcazar palace with it's ornate decorations reminiscent of Morocco and it's tranquil gardens. Just around the corner from the hotel is the Plaza de Toros regarded as the oldest and most beautiful bullring in Spain and despite our objections to the sport itself, we remained impressed by this spectacular arena. Not too far away from the city centre is The Spanish Plaza, which is a complete surprise to me as I know very little about it but now regard it as possibly one of great buildings in the world. When the sun finally retreats around 10.00pm, the locals begin to emerge to enjoy their paella’s and drink sangria’s in the many street cafes, while the beautifully maintained horse drawn carts clip clop by. Like most tourists who stupidly tramp around in the midday sun, we are tanned and tired but in the cool of the evening we now happily try to blend in. All is well, until our lack of Spanish inevitably gives us away!

County hopping

No sooner have we hit the shores of Southampton and we board a train for a short half journey to Bournemouth to visit Jules’ aunty and uncle. It is now a familiar spot for us and seems to always welcome us back with a warm sunny day. As part of our stay this time we visit the bustling township of Poole, which looks so picturesque with its views of a sparkling boat filled inlet. There is certainly a holiday atmosphere, with the tempting smell of chips and vinegar wafting through the air. After a few days of generous hospitality we head back to London for a quick pit stop before hitting the road again to visit Jules’ second cousin and his family in Norwich. We had visited several years ago, but this time we have more time to explore the surrounding area. This includes a quaint little seaside town called Sheringham; with it’s tumbled stone beach and an impressive links golf course that hugs the rugged coast. Further inland we explore a very grand residence called Blickling Hall, formally home to Anne Boleyn, the ill-fated wife of Henry VIII. We wander around admiring the considerable collection of art as well as the ornate ceilings and fireplaces. However, closer to Jules heart is the expansive kitchen downstairs that reveals a glimpse of life in service providing good English fare for dignitaries such as Queen Mary. After a short stay in Norwich we continue our travels with another short train trip to the cathedral city of Ely, which was famously home to Oliver Cromwell at the time of England’s short-lived revolution. It is here that my cousin is to be married and the big event brings friends and family together from far and wide. It is very much a village wedding, complete with horse and cart and the reception is held in a beautiful apple orchard that overlooks the rural surrounds. As the sun sets and with a celebratory glass of champagne in hand, we gaze admiringly over a classic English pastoral scene that we imagine wouldn’t have changed too much over time.

Final ports of call

The approach to Norway is very picturesque as we sail through narrow channels observing quaint and colourful wooden buildings perched high on rocky outcrops close to the water. The weather is somewhat cooler than we have been used to as we arrive in Oslo and for the first time in 10 days the skies are overcast. Nonetheless, the city looks welcoming and very manageable for walking. We first head towards the Royal Palace which is in the city centre then meander down the wide main avenue through to the lively shopping areas. Its a nice mixture of old and new and it seems to be quite a relaxed place. This was the home of the artist Edvard Munch so its quite surprising how such an intense painting as 'The Scream' was ever created here. The next day we visit Kristiansand which is far more traditional with its white washed weatherboard homes. It is smaller and less sophisticated than Oslo but is similarly positioned in a scenic harbour which we enjoy as we start to begin our journey back to Southampton.

Helsinki smiles!

Although Helsinki in Finland is only a few hours away from St Petersburg the atmosphere is completely different. While St Petersburg appeared to be quite serious and austere, Helsinki on the other hand is clearly a relaxed and happy city. The locals are extremely friendly and keen to assist newcomers in experiencing the very best they had to offer. As trams bustle around the streets, it reminds us very much of Melbourne, as does some of the art deco architecture around the harbour that is similar to St Kilda. The warm weather (high 20s) saw many market stalls setting up around the docks area while sidewalk cafes lined city streets. On the harbour there are plenty of boats taking tourist groups around the coast. We spend several hours in the design district, which is home to dozens of great shops selling a wonderful range of Finnish products. If only we had more room in our suitcases!