The Sensational Street Markets of Chiang Mai

One of the amazing things about Chiang Mai and probably Thailand in general is the amazing sense of business enterprise you constantly come across. There seems to be all manner of street food vendors everywhere you go and countless market stalls are dotted throughout the city and tourist spots. Generally, there appears to be no formal opening times and there is always some enterprising Thai trying to sell you something at any hour of the day. However, for a more organised event, the Sunday night street market is a must see. I’m not sure whether there is a Guinness book of records entry for the worlds largest open-air night market, but if there is, this one would certainly be in the running. It involves closing off several of the major streets in the old part of town, spreading out into the narrow laneways, invading the grounds of several local temples and generally occupying any spare space close to the action. For sale are endless examples of Thai art and craft produced from large local factories down to small backyard operations. When Jules and I went along, it was a balmy night and it seemed that the whole city along with a few thousand tourists were there. However the mood was, as you would expect in Thailand, very happy and relaxed. As we browsed and strolled along, numerous music groups were playing traditional tunes making the event feel more like a cultural festival than a market. The various food stalls continued to tempt our taste buds with exotic flavours drifting through the night air, until we finally succumbed. When we saw something we liked we engaged in some light-hearted bartering, as is expected in this part of the world. Although, Jules often felt guilty about the ridiculous prices we were paying and simply wanted to give the stall owner what they were asking only to find them giving her a discount anyway. It was hard to believe that a market of this size happens each week, but for those who missed it or who are just hooked on searching out a bargain, we found that there were plenty of other opportunities at the daily night bazaar. While being generally more commercial in its selection of products, it still remained a nice way to spend a warm evening in Chiang Mai followed by a nice meal and cooling drink sitting alongside the banks of the Ping River.

Jungle Monkeys

One of the labels that I certainly wouldn’t apply to Jules and myself would be ‘thrill seekers’, but while in Chiang Mai we were tempted by what they call the ‘jungle flight’ experience. Early on a fine and sunny morning we were picked up and driven for an hour outside of town, high into the local mountains. We were around 1000 metres above sea level when the car stopped in a tiny village. There we were met by our instructors, who provided us with a harness and helmet ready to ‘fly’ between the tallest of trees in the forest. This involved hanging by our harness from a series of ‘zip lines’ and flying through the air between a course of wooden platforms or stations. After trekking on foot further into the jungle, we could hear the hoots and screams of other people who were already on the course. They were either loving it or having the fright of their life, we weren’t quite sure! After a quick safety briefing we were handed one important final piece of equipment …a hooked wooden stick! The theory was that when you were flying along at high speed, around 20 metres above the ground, this would act as your brake upon reaching the on coming tree. In the chaos of high-speed flight, you would quickly hook the stick over the cable and pull down hard with the effect of slowing you down. We were soon about to test the theory and to my surprise Jules opted to go first, jumping bravely off the platform as if she had done it a thousand times before. As we advanced, the stations became more and more challenging, coinciding with our growing confidence and we were soon flying through the lush forest like a couple of monkeys. While this was all good fun for us, our guide also pointed out that this tourist activity provided much needed support to the local villagers, who were not only employed by the company, but also paid an annual rent for the trees selected for the various stations. The whole operation appeared to be very eco-friendly with the course sitting naturally within the environment, allowing the natural habitat to continue to flourish. As we finished the final steep ascent we felt a sense of satisfaction that we had not only managed to conquer our nerves, but in an adventurous way had the opportunity to look deep into the jungles of Chiang Mai. Later, sitting back in the tiny village and eating the delicious Thai lunch that was provided, we could brag of our exploits with the other tourists and count ourselves as true jungle thrill seekers.

Sawatdee Chiang Mai

The good thing about living in Osaka is that you are relatively close to plenty of countries in the Asian region. Being the spring vacation, we decided to venture abroad to Thailand and in particular the northern region of Chiang Mai, which we had heard so much about from friends. Upon arrival we were immediately struck with how different it was than Japan. Not only was the weather warmer (mid 30’s), but gone was the feel of the big city. Even though it was bustling with motorbikes, tuk-tuks (popular three wheeled taxis) and cars, it was more like a large country town with it’s population of around 300,000 people. As we travelled the streets it was clear that eating and drinking is a major pastime with many small bars dotted along major streets throughout the town centre, while sidewalk food stalls tempt you with delicious Thai flavours. Once we started to mingle with the locals we soon begin to feel the warmth and friendliness of the people themselves. Both Jules and I commented on the apparent simplicity of life here and how happy everyone appeared to be. Everywhere we went we were always welcomed with a smile and graciously thanked with a bow of the head with the hands placed in the traditional pray-like pose. During our time in Chiang Mai we stayed a little bit out of town in a lovely spot situated on the banks of the Ping River. Each morning we woke to the distinctive sounds of native birds and insects and as we looked out from our balcony and across the river, we could clearly see the misty mountains beyond. Toward the top of Doi Suthep Mountain there stands one of the most beautiful Buddhist temples in the region. So on a warm, clear day we hired a taxi and headed up there to marvel at the ornate decorations of this sacred place. Following a steep and windy 16km trip, we finally arrived and after dogging the many souvenir stalls we joined thousands of other tourists in climbing the final 309 steps to the famous gold pagodas and a sensational view of Chiang Mai. Despite the obvious commercialism of such places, you couldn’t help but admire its mystical and timeless qualities. Clearly it remains a feature that continues to attract many overseas visitors to Chiang Mai and provides just one of many facets of what life in this part of the world continues to offer.

Magnificent Miyajima

One of the wonderful things about visiting Hiroshima is hopping on one of the many trams and moving around the city. Much like Melbourne in Australia, the network is extensive and it can take you far and wide. There are modern trams, but I particularly loved the many beautifully preserved carriages from the 1950/60’s (many of which were provided by countries during re-building following the devastation of the A- Bomb). One such trip will take you on a 16km journey from the city centre to Miyajima-guchi, where you can board a ferry across to Miyajima Island. This is a wonderful spot, which as you look across the narrow channel, evokes images of traditional Japanese woodblock prints with their ethereal scenes of mountains rising from the mist. The trip over is quite short and the township that awaits you is a very quaint, with the usual tourist shops and specialised restaurants. However, what strikes you more immediately are scenes of wild deer happily wandering around the town. After many years of continued contact with humans, they are now in the habit of meandering down from the mountains on a daily basis in the hope of scrounging the odd morsal. While the interaction of these placid beasts and camera-laden tourists is not necessarily encouraged, it has become inevitable and somehow it all seems to work. Miyajima is a world heritage listed site and as well as the deer and it’s many temples, is probably most recognised by the Tori Gate, which is one of the most photographed sights in Japan with this iconic image making it’s way onto the cover of many a travel brochures. Standing a few hundred metres off shore it amazingly remains freestanding on the sand and at low tide it is possible to walk out to view it at close quarters. However, the best view of this magnificent gate is from the shore at the Itsukushima Shrine; a classic piece of Japanese architecture, painted in traditional orange colours combined with natural woods. It stands in the shadow of Mt. Misen and leads to a series of walking trails that take you along picturesque paths to the summit, which is over 500 metres above sea level. Fortunately, for those less inclined there is also the cable car option, which I was quite happy to use on the way down after a couple of hours of steep up hill hiking. However, walking is certainly worth the effort as you encounter more wild deer and sometimes even monkeys along the way. Nearing the top, the trail narrows and there are many giant boulders to traverse before you begin to smell the welcoming charcoal fumes from the Shingon Buddhist temple that contains a sacred flame that has burnt for over 1,170 years. Upward a few hundred metres you finally reach the mountain peek which rewards you with the most spectacular views of the Seto inland sea all the way through to Hiroshoma. Thankfully when I was there it was fine and sunny, the view was clear and looking downward there was a quiet opportunity to reflect upon the magnificence of Miyajima Island.

Hope for Recovery

My initial motivation for writing this blog was to try and articulate in words my impressions of the things that Jules and I encounter on our journey as well as the emotional response we have to them. For the most part these are positive experiences that leave us both with a sense of wonder about the interesting facets of our world. However, with the events in Japan this week you are quickly jolted back into perspective as you realise the dramatic impact that mother-nature can have upon all of our lives. Last Friday I was travelling back from Hiroshima on the bullet train when the earthquake hit. Fortunately the impact was minimal with only a slight delay, however the uncertainty of what had happened in other parts of the country was quickly spreading. By the time we arrived in Osaka, the seriousness of what had happened was beginning to become apparent. While the centre of the quake was well to the north, its impact was already beginning to spread throughout the country. By the time I had returned to our apartment the news of the resulting tsunami was beginning to be telecast on the TV and like the rest of the world, we sat in disbelief and watched it’s destructive force. The next day the news of the damaged nuclear reactors began to surface and at this time there still remains uncertainty about the long-term ramifications of the radiation leaks. Having only lived in Japan for a short while, we have quickly gained respect for the friendliness, determination, efficiency and resilience of the people. For the time being Japan is our home and we feel both sympathy and empathy for those affected. It remains our sincere hope that the problems caused by this disaster can be quickly overcome.

Flying the company colours

Japan is a country that is justifiably proud of its achievements in the car manufacturing industry. It is fair to say that the land of the rising sun remains one of the world leaders in providing quality and innovative automotive design. The brands have become highly successful and recognisable household names…Toyota, Honda, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Subaru, Suzuki, Daihatsu etc. What you may not know is that each company is strongly linked to a major Japanese city. Much like the local football team, the community strongly support their particular team or should I say company. They in turn continue to financially support the regional economy while providing significant employment for the local population. Tokyo has Honda and Mitsubishi, Nagoya has Toyota, Osaka has Daihatsu and Yokahama has Nissan. When in Hiroshima it’s Mazda that is the car of choice and they dominate the roads and carparks. Likewise, you can’t miss the company headquarters that commands a significant part of the city infrastructure. If you are there, be sure to join one of their free tours that take you to the museum and manufacturing plant. The pride in their product is immediately obvious, as they enthusiastically guide you through the company history and development from its three-wheeled origins to the sleek concept cars of today. You can observe the modern day production line as the latest models are churned out through a highly sophisticated manufacturing combination of robotics and manpower. You can also view the shiny end product as it moves off the production line and rolls smoothly onto the company ships, which are conveniently docked alongside the factory… a very streamlined operation indeed! Of course there are also plenty of opportunities to jump into the latest models and you might even be tempted to place an order. However, much like the rivalry between Holden and Ford in Australia, there is more to choosing a car than just basing your decision on performance and style. In Japan, flying the company colours is economically important and loyalty to a brand continues to be powerful attractor that can sometimes be generational decision.

Memories of Hiroshima

I recently had the opportunity to take a school group to Hiroshima to visit Peace Park and to meet some of the actual survivors from the atomic bomb. It was an enlightening and humbling experience to stand only metres from the site of the hypocentre of the explosion and to hear, see and read accounts of that fateful day. In the centre of the city stands the ‘Atomic Bomb Dome’ with its ruins standing much as they did immediately following the devastation. It provides the most fitting memorial to the many thousands who horrifically lost their lives at 8.15am August 6 1945. Walking through nearby Peace Park you pass the Children Memorial where thousands of paper cranes pay tribute to Sadako, a little Japanese girl who became a victim of leukaemia as a result of her exposure to atomic radiation. Onward along the pathway you approach the arched Memorial Cenotaph that leads on to The Peace Memorial Museum. This impressive building houses many of the disfigured artefacts from that catastrophic time and graphically describes the historical background of the atomic bomb in the hope that such devastation will never be witnessed again. Certainly this was also the sentiment of Setsuko Morita, who graciously spoke to our students about her experience as a Hiroshima bomb victim. She was 13 at the time and despite being 1.7 kilometres from the hypocentre of the explosion was blown to the ground by its sheer force, receiving many severe burns. She recalled the blinding flash of white light and the indescribable horror of what she saw as she made her way through the streets. Her poignant account provided a very personal perspective to an historical event that I had only previously been able to visualise through old black and white photos and grainy film footage. The clarity and passion in which she spoke and her advocacy against the use of nuclear weapons was quite inspirational. Certainly this point of view continues to be echoed by many other survivors and citizens of Hiroshima. While the city today remains bustling and vibrant, clearly the memories of 1945 are never too far away.

The Pachinko Phenomenon

As Jules and I often say, Japan is certainly ‘the land of contradictions’! We are often amazed at the many subtle and delicate aspects of the culture, while at other times we are simply overwhelmed by the incredible crassness of it’s modern society. Such is the case with the plethora of ‘Pachinko parlours’ that are dotted around the cities and suburbs. For the uninitiated, ‘Pachinko’ is unique to Japanese society and is something like a pinball machine with metal balls spinning around in a circular motion. They look very much like a slot machine and in fact they are normally found in the same establishments. No doubt they are a form of gambling, even though technically gambling for cash is illegal in Japan. This is a law that is somewhat flaunted, as winning participants receive vouchers that are taken to premises closeby where they exchange them for prizes, these in turn can be exchanged again for cash! It is an interesting arrangement that appears to allow authorities to turn a blind eye to the whole transaction. Finding a Pachinko parlour is not difficult and while it’s appearance may sometimes blend into the visual chaos of many of the nightlife districts, it’s location will soon become obvious when the big sliding doors open…you can’t miss it! You are first hit by a wave of indescribable noise, with the sound of thousands of cascading ball bearings simultaneously whirling around the machines. Upon entering it’s even worse, to the point that you can barely think. The sight of row upon row of the machines, the deafening noise, the flashing lights, garish surroundings and the smoke filled room has you searching for the exit very quickly. Still, it somehow remains an extremely popular pastime throughout Japan with many adults from all walks of life spending hours sitting in line watching the balls spin around and around, with very little actual control over the result. It appears to be quite a mindless exercise with very limited chance of winning, but participants appear mesmerised. Perhaps it is the chance of that big win, it can’t surely be the atmosphere!! Whatever the attraction, it remains a complete mystery to these two westerners and yet another strange contradiction of life over here.

Dicing with the Deadly Fugu

As Jules and I wander the streets of Osaka we inevitably find ourselves in one of the numerous restaurant areas…there are just so many! Of course, there are plenty of different forms of food to choose from, but the one that has me particularly fascinated are the places that specialise in serving the deadly Fugu fish. They are quite easy to find, as they often have a tank in the window with these ugly, but highly appreciated fish swimming around or a large model of one hanging above the door. Now, the first time I heard of this type of marine creature was when I used to go fishing with my dad many years ago and we would occasionally catch the Australian equivalent, called a Toadfish or ‘Toady’ as we used to call them. When you caught one they would puff up to about three times their size looking very unappetising. Even more significant was the fact that they are highly poisonous and so we were always happy to just throw them back. Our wariness was further fuelled by various urban myths regarding whole families who had been wiped out after catching and eating the deadly fish. Well, it seems that Japanese Fugu (puffer fish) is a somewhat bigger cousin…uglier and even more poisonous that it’s Australian counterpart, but for some strange reason it’s meat is highly sought in Japan. It is so revered that people will risk their lives to eat raw slices in government-licenced premises. In order to obtain permission to serve the fish, the chef must go through a rigorous training program in order to learn how to remove all traces of poison from the flesh, which is traditionally served sashimi style. It is one of the most expensive fish in the world and it’s flavour is said to be very delicate. At this stage Jules and I have not been tempted to try it, but some of my teaching colleagues have indulged and live to tell the tale. Their advice to me was simple…just get your affairs in order before you enter the restaurant! I’m not sure whether I am quite ready yet , but I must admit I have a sneaking admiration for those who are brave enough to dice with the Fugu fish.

Building a Japanese House

As I have always had a strong interest in architecture, I was particularly keen to have a closer look at domestic architecture while in Japan. Over the years in my Design classes we would inevitably discuss the stylistic inspiration of Japanese architecture on modernist pioneers such as Frank Lloyd Wright and Charles Rennie Mackintosh. This would eventually lead to the Bauhaus and obvious connections to the minimalist style that remains so popular today. While the traditional wooden, grid-based style can still be easily found, it is fair to say that the modern Japanese home is now very different in both design and construction. Fortunately, I have the opportunity to observe modern house construction first hand while passing the numerous building sites on the way to school. Being in the outer northern suburbs of Osaka, the once open foothills are now quickly being covered with what can only be described as ‘instant’ homes.

The first thing that strikes you is the size of the land on which they are being built, which is very small. However, in true Japanese tradition every portion of the space is fully utilised ensuring that each home is literally within arms length of its neighbour.
Most sit very close to the road, with just enough space for a small car space. The generally double storey designs vary considerably, from flat roofed modern executive styles to traditional cottages that would look more at home in England. The last remnants of Japanese aesthetic appears to have almost totally disappeared, with even the traditional tatami room increasingly giving way to the popular home cinema. However, what continues to fascinate me is the sheer speed in which they are constructed. With the foundation barely dry, the wooden framework goes up with tradesmen busily working into the night, often under floodlights in order to push the job forward. A cloth covered scaffold is neatly placed around the house while construction is underway, so for several weeks the house looks like a large present ready to be unwrapped by the proud owner in due course. There is not a cement mixer in sight, with the stone, brick or cement exterior finishes achieved by textured panels that are eventually glued on. Not surprisingly, I have heard that modern homes are not particularly well insulated and this might explain the high demand for reverse cycle air conditioning units. Nonetheless, when the finished home is revealed a few weeks later, it has the appearance of a shiny new appliance.

Of course there is great care taken in selecting an impressive front door, which always opens outward for some reason. This could be cultural or more likely a way of providing more interior space for removing your shoes; a traditional practice that still continues today.

Le Corbusier once stated that a home should be ‘a machine for living in’ and it seems that the Japanese have taken this adage on board. Like most modern products that inevitably become obsolete, these homes are not expected to last forever. Having lived with earthquakes for centuries, the Japanese are well aware of that. I was told that 30 years was a reasonable expectation for the life of a house and with that in mind, you can well understand the sense of impermanence these modern homes often seem to reflect.

Osaka's Electronic Maze

During our early days in Japan we found ourselves with the challenge of having to quickly furnish and equip our apartment with the usual array of electrical appliances. It was while going through this process we became more than familiar with the ‘Godzilla sized’ electrical stores that dominate many of the major shopping areas. Nothing quite prepares you for the experience of walking into multi-level mega-stores like ‘Yodobashi Camera’ or ‘Labi’. Here, you are immediately hit by a wave of noise and visuals that would totally disorientate most unsuspecting consumers, not to mention the already disorientated foreigner, who can’t read or speak a word of Japanese. Catchy jingles are continually and loudly played throughout the store, subconsciously planting an annoying little tune in your head that is guaranteed to stay with you long after you leave. For those long suffering sales assistants, it must be like slow torture, but they don’t outwardly show it, maintaining their friendly bows and echoed crys of ‘Irasshaimase’(welcome to my store) all day long. While the sounds are distracting, they pale into insignificance to the visual barrage of information that faces you. To us it simply becomes a meaningless mosaic of pattern and colour, but for the Japanese consumer it must truly be a ‘sledgehammer’ approach to selling. Thankfully for us, the prices are clear and presented in English characters, making it easy for us to buy our chosen products. When you eventually reach a cashiers desk, the assistants are gushing over with friendliness and immediately offer you a point card (hugely popular in Japan). This means that with every purchase you can build up your ‘pointo’s’, which allows for future discounts. This provides the incentive to lure you back into the store to endure the experience all over again. Of course, we have been back many times and each time we walk in those doors the sight and sound of these amazing electrical stores instantly brings back memories of our first confusing and exciting days in Japan.

Karaoke Kids!

If you begin to spend a reasonable length of time in Japan it is inevitable that you will at some stage find yourself dragged into a karaoke bar. Believe me, there are many of them and they come in a wide variety of forms. At night the city streets are full of touts eager to usher you into their particular establishment, where a range of soundproof private rooms called ‘karaoke boxes’ await you. Here, for an hourly fee, you and your friends can vocally murder a range of popular songs, many of which were favourites before going in there, but possibly not after. I must confess that in the wee small hours of the night after a feast and a few ales, Jules and I have been coerced into such places. After crossing that threshold there is no turning back, it’s either sink or sing!! Of course when eventually the microphone is slipped into your hand, you are encouraged by three key factors…
1. Most songs are sung in pairs, which ensures shared humiliation.
2. The microphones they give you have the most incredible reverb that can make even the worst of singers sound good!
3. Those in the karaoke box are primed with a steady supply of alcohol throughout the evening.
The last factor is most important as it has the dual effect of making the singer think that they actually sound good, while also making the listener totally unable to differentiate the numerous bum notes. Having now experienced the wonderful world of karaoke, we both agree that it can actually be a fun few hours and certainly a great way to bond with newfound friends. We certainly won’t be taking our singing talents any further, but if you’re tempted to indulge in such musical mayhem there is probably not a better country in the world to give it a try. After all, the Japanese invented it and karaoke still remains one of their most popular national pastimes.

The Mysteries of Buddhism

Walking the familiar path back to school at 7.30am in mid January, the air is cold, the light is dull and there are even some small flakes of snow falling from above. It’s in stark contrast to the blazing sun that Jules and I felt as we walked the streets of Adelaide over the New Year period. As I make my way up the hill, breathing steam as I go, I can smell the familiar aroma of incense drifting across from the Buddhist cemetery that I pass everyday. This is a regular occurrence and can happen at any hour as well wishers pay their respects, not with flowers, but with the burning of incense sticks. As I pass the entrance and take a glance, there is no-one to be seen, only the serene outlines of the various Buddha figures that overlook the area. These figures are usually made of granite and come in a range of sizes and forms. What we particularly find amusing is that these figures are often adorned with brightly coloured clothing. Little hats, neckerchiefs, and cloaks are often lovingly made and placed on the figures as if to help them stave off the cold. This was particularly evident recently when we visited the Shitennoji markets, which are held in the grounds of a local Buddhist temple. There, hundreds of little figures (standing no taller than 30cm high) stand as silent sentinels at the entrance looking beautifully attired in a myriad of tiny little outfits. Not being experts on the Buddhist faith, Jules and I remain slightly perplexed by what this all means. This is just one small facet of a religion that increasingly fascinates us both. Even for an outsider looking in, there appears to be an understated calmness that is in stark contrast to the modern metropolitan world. Temples appear in the most unlikely of places and it is not unusual to see a brief cased office worker taking a quiet moment to pay his respects by burning incense and striking the distinctive sounding bell. Recently Jules was advised to buy a ‘temple book’, in which for a small fee, monks will write words of wisdom in beautiful Japanese calligraphic script. This conveniently gives us an excuse to visit more temples to learn a little more about this mysterious and somewhat cryptic religion.

Travellers Back for Christmas

After much anticipation we finally boarded our plane for our first journey back home since leaving the shores of Australia over 20 months ago. Despite only a slight time difference between Japan and home, it takes around 17 hours before we actually touch down in Adelaide on a somewhat uncharacteristically cold and damp summers day. Despite feeling a little tired we are very excited to see both of our families and in particular our son Dave. Much has happened in his life since we left and not having parents to rely upon has certainly seen him mature into a very responsible and confident young man. Also brilliant to catch up with friends, who continue to be so encouraging with their moral support throughout our travels via skype, emails and letters. Christmas Day brings the whole family together, including Jules’ sisters and her mum and dad, who make a special trip from country Victoria to share the special day. It is one of the rare times when we are all together and the occasion also provides an opportunity for us to also mark a number of significant family milestones, including their 50th wedding anniversary and our 30th. We all gradually slip into a relaxed holiday mode over the next few days as temperatures steadily rise, culminating in a stiffling 43 degrees on New Years Eve. A traditional Aussie barbeque seems like the most appropriate way to welcome 2011. Typically, Adelaide tends to shut down over the Christmas / New Year period, but we do have chance to drive around familiar haunts in our little rental car. We have noticed some superficial changes, but it remains essentially the same. Progress tends to work in slow motion in good old Adelaide, which can be both a blessing and a curse. However, we can now see our home town with fresh eyes, which tends to happen when you have been away for a while. Even after living here almost all of our lives, we now feel slightly detached and observe the various happenings somewhat impartially. For the moment we feel out of the loop, but through the wonders of technology, we will continue to keep a watchful eye from afar … after all ‘we still call Australia home’!

Christmas in Japan

Once again festive season is upon us and this year Jules and I are jetting back home to Australia to celebrate with family and friends. However, before we head off, we have the chance to experience a taste of Japanese Christmas. Like us, you might be surprised that it is even celebrated here at all, considering it’s predominantly Buddhist and Shinto spiritual leanings (less than 1% of the population are actually Christian). However, as is the case with many other western influences, the Japanese have enthusiastically taken Christmas on board. Gone are the biblical references, with the focus of this time of the year on a combination of Santa, family and friends. It is also regarded as somewhat of a time for romance, with Christmas Eve being akin to Valentines Day. Like at home, Christmas decorations are a major part of the celebration and they start to appear in early November. Steadily the build up begins with households and shopping streets throughout Osaka hanging elaborate decorative lights to launch the festive season. This was particularly evident when we recently visited Kobe, where they have one of the most spectacular light shows you could ever hope to see. The illuminations originally began as a commemoration to the victims of the 1995 earthquake and have since grown into a spectacular and quite moving event. For 10 evenings the streets are closed to traffic, while thousands of people slowly parade through a dazzling display of lights, while a stirring choral soundtrack adds to a surprisingly spiritual atmosphere. There is a winter’s chill in the air (not as cold as Paris…more like an Aussie winter), but there is a general feeling of warmth and goodwill in the air. Naturally enough the retail shops use the season as a time to boost trading, with favourite seasonal tunes playing in every store, while decorative trees and displays heavily promote annual Christmas sales. From all accounts Christmas Day itself is a little strange. It is really much like any other; the stores are open, people work and students go to school. We were surprised to read recently that the traditional Christmas dish is Kentucky Fried Chicken!!!.. with the ‘finger lickin’ morsels so popular that you have to pre-book your bucket for the day. Surprisingly, presents are not traditionally given, with much of that saved until the New Year celebrations. Unlike the western world there is also no Christmas hang over and apparently by the day after the decorations have been whisked away for another year. It is certainly very different, but strangely enough you can’t help but sense that the Japanese have managed to get the commercialism of Christmas in perspective. They don’t pretend that it’s anything more than what it is…a feel good time to spend, eat, drink and enjoy in good company!

A Couple of Tokyo Joe's

Being a long weekend in Japan, Jules and I decided to fulfil one of our major goals since arriving in Japan. We boarded the bullet train for a quick trip to Tokyo! The train itself is a super fast beast that whisks you past the snow capped Mt. Fuji before pulling into Tokyo station only two and a half hours after leaving Osaka. From there it was just a short walk to the upmarket area of Ginza where we were staying. Being close to the Imperial Palace, it is a very stylish part of town. Along the major shopping strip all of the major European designer labels are well represented and despite worries about the Japanese economy we notice plenty of retail activity. Christmas is in the air and in the evening the city lights are even more spectacular with added illuminations on many of the buildings and tree lined streets. Once again Jules comes into her own, by quickly mastering the metro system and we are easily able to dart around to various areas of this huge city. We explore bustling Asakusa, with the traditional Sensoji temple on one side of the river and the post-modernism architecture of Philippe Starck’s Asahi brewery on the other. There is also the crazy excitement of Akihabara, which is the electronics centre of town, which is matched by the fashion areas of Harajuka and Shibuya with its famous pedestrian crossing that has become the archetypical scene of Tokyo. I begin to discover some the numerous galleries that dot the city, including a major Van Gogh exhibition at the National Arts Centre, which was particularly appropriate as only a few months ago we had visited many of the places where the works were painted. On Sunday evening we indulged ourselves by visiting the bar made famous in the movie ‘Lost in Translation’. On the 52nd floor of the of the Park Hyatt Hotel we sit with drink in hand, listening to some cool jazz and admiring the spectacular view…not bad at all!! Jules and I both agreed that Tokyo generally has a different feel than Osaka…much more cosmopolitan, it feels like a major international city and there is a sense that the locals know it… not in an arrogant way, but just in their general air of confidence. Most spoke some English, which was particularly helpful to us, and the signage, menus etc. were always in dual languages. It is a welcoming city and we certainly enjoyed our short stay here. As we sped back to Osaka we felt confident that we will return soon…there is still so much to see!

Sculptural Servings

For my recent birthday Jules presented me with something I had secretly wanted to possess since we had arrived in Japan…my own genuine piece of ‘plastic food’. It came in the form of a deliciously tempting fruity ice-cream sundae which looked so fresh and tempting, which is exactly what it is designed to do. I had developed this strange fascination for these colourful and totally inedible plastic pieces since we started to frequent the many restaurant areas around Osaka. It seems that almost every second eating establishment display their exotic menus using model replicas of the actual dish. They are beautifully presented to the last detail, but as we later found, often provide a somewhat enhanced version of the actual dish that comes to your table. What I particularly like about the plastic pieces are their sculptural qualities that accentuate the sheer visual splendour of food…its colour, texture, patterns and forms. The displays are pure ‘pop art’ that in a different setting could easily be accredited to artists such as Warhol and Koons. Instead they simply add to the overwhelming visual assault that hits the unsuspecting visitor to the streets of Japan. In the meanwhile my little piece sits proudly on display in our apartment, always fresh, ever so tempting, but never to be eaten.

Croissants and Kimonos

When you think about France and in particular Paris, it conjures up a whole range of mental images usually associated with food, wine, fashion, art or architecture. We certainly loved experiencing as many of these things as possible while we were there. However, it seems that nowhere in the world is French culture regarded in such high esteem as here in Japan. All things French are unquestioningly placed on a pedestal and held up as the pinnacle of sophistication. Many fashion arcades are dedicated to the giants of French couture, while lesser local clothes shops simply brand their establishments in French in order to suggest their stylistic credentials. When walking through a food area you are hard pressed not to come across a patisserie or boulangerie, complete with a catchy French title (often spelt incorrectly). If you peer through the windows you see high-hatted bakers producing delicate pastries and crunchy French sticks that could be straight from the streets of Paris. Similarly, the local liqueur stores proudly boast a wide selection of wines from major wine regions such as Champagne, Provence and Bordeaux (highly recommended). There also seems to be an endless number of homeware stores encouraging the Japanese to switch to the French provincial style. Of course the major galleries here heavily promote their French collections of paintings, even if they seem to consist of lesser known works. If you want a souvenir of Paris itself, why go there, when you can easily pick up a fridge magnet, postcard or even a replica Eiffel Tower! Possibly the strangest thing we came across was in Kobe, where we found a complete full size replica of an old style French village on a busy city corner. The facade not only came with traditional windows and signage, but in a dedicated attempt for authenticity, it had been artificially aged with faded paintwork and chipping plaster. The old style French oil lamps further sought to complete an illusion that was never really going to work, as numerous high-rise buildings tower over the scene. Jules and I, are constantly amazed with this strange fascination and always looking for further evidence of ‘Japanese-Francophilia’.

Otsu and All That Jazz

The Japanese love their jazz and it seems that just about every weekend you can listen to some wonderful live performances in and around the city. We have run into several by accident, but on the weekend we decided to visit a small jazz festival in a town called Otsu just a few miles out from Kyoto.

The‘Otsu Jazz Festival’ is quite a new one and this year is only the second time the event has operated. After about a 45 minute train journey, we walk out of the station to be enthusiastically greeted by an English speaking promotion volunteer who thrusts a program in our hands and starts to direct us toward the many venues in the town. Otsu is a relatively quiet place, perched on the banks of Lake Biwa and the jazz festival was obviously originally designed to inject a little bit of life into the town and provide a focus for the community.

As we wander around the streets we come across some terrific performers who are all surrounded by small enthusiastic groups of jazz lovers, wildly applauding each number.Not surprisingly we seem to be the only foreigners there, although do we come across a food vendor from Turkey selling yiros at one of the venues near the water. In the same spot our eyes catch a glimpse of an Australian flag, where to our surprise, there is a Japanese man selling Aussie meat pies! Our patriotic duty meant that we simply had to have one! As we continued to move around to see the various acts, we are ushered into a traditional Japanese house by a kindly old gentleman uncharacteristically wearing a jazz festival t-shirt. The interior is typically Japanese with its wooden screens and as we pass an ancient interior water well (that is obviously still in use) we see and hear a young guitar duet playing some lovely jazz standards in a large tatami room. We respectfully remove our shoes, pull up a pillow and join the handful of spectators sitting on the floor enjoying the music. Near the performers the sliding screens are open, revealing a picturesque Japanese courtyard. It was just perfect and sitting there listening to some soulful jazz it all seemed quite surreal. I must say that Jules and I have never listened to live jazz quite like this before!

A tasty time in Kobe

On a bright and sunny Autumn day Jules and I decide to venture out toward the seaside to visit the nearby city of Kobe. It’s about an hour away from our apartment by train, so it’s quite an easy commute that takes you between the coast on one side and the mountains on the other. Kobe is most recently known for the 1995 earthquake, which killed around 6,500 people and injured some 250,000. When we arrive there is now little sign of the devastation, although down by the docks there is small Commemorative Park where an original stretch of the ruined coastal walkway is still preserved. Today it is once again a bustling city, but it’s proximity to the coast gives it a somewhat more relaxed feel than other areas around Osaka. We had set out to visit one of the many art & craft markets that are constantly held throughout the year, but as is often the case there is so much more to see. We stumble into a small jazz concert, and then spend some time sampling the many tasty delights of Chinatown (where there was another jazz concert). With a Turkish ice cream in hand we head down toward the shore to find yet another flea market, then upon arriving at docks themselves we discover a huge gourmet festival in full swing! The Japanese really know how to celebrate the joys of good food and we are happy to join in! There is little time to explore the temples and other cultural sights on this visit; we’ll save that for another day!!